My Little Knitter


When my 4 year old daughter came to me the other day and said
"Mommy I want to knit too. Can you show me how to make stitches?"
I practically melted in my seat.

"Are you kidding me?.. !!!"

I have been waiting for this day.. for well... about 4 years! :)
I've determined that my daughter will love knitting.
She'll have to. I will make her.. or something.

So every few days we've been having "knitting classes" together.
They last about 5 minutes or so...But it is oh so sweet
to watch those little fingers hold the yarn and needles.

I've remembered a little children's knitting rhyme that I heard somewhere to help her remember the steps.

It goes something like this..

"In through the front door. Run around the back. Out through the window and off jumps Jack!"

I can't wait until we can truly knit together. That will be so fun!




getting organized

I have a 2-drawer unit from a vintage sewing machine, which I found at the flea market. Those two drawers sit on my sewing table and hold all my thread spools. It seemed a good idea, but over time the threads have mingled and have become a bit of a jumbled mess...
I picked up a wooden spool rack from the fabric store,
painted it Krylon 'Celery',
and hung it next to the sewing table.

No more digging. And I can actually see at a glance what colors I do or don't have.

I feel very organized now.

~Deb

Relaxed Crochet, Train Travel (Premier)


Platform 15 Jo-Berg (South Africa)

http://www.premierclasse.co.za/

Champagne knit coffee a kind of orient express.

Relax sit back and look at the ever passing changing,

extremely diverse surrounding.


Enjoy the rocking and the squeal of the tracks, beats flying any day.

Armed with new supplies

Jo-berg and a helpful cousin,
(Tack Kyle)
found me "Sew What"

Aptly named haberdashery, it's official I could live in South Africa
Good coffee and a knit shop.....I'm in.




Me (unusual I know) Never keen on pictures with me in them,

but I guess every now and then it's OK just so you know

I'm a real person..............


Not just a Superknit hero;-)



Champagne as I do like to crochet in style.

Sipping champers to the chug of a train.



Crochet and the bed, a little compartment each,

complete with bed sofa and a little table and wash basin.

(so little I missed it )

So a very kind passenger,

Slightly drunk

showed me where. Oj oj oj



630 wake up with coffee and 24 hour trip

F,A,B as they say in Thunderbirds.



It rained it poured on way the the station

My poor pink pumps got flooded, they spent the trip drying out.

Extreme rain.

Once we left Jo-Berg the sun shone.


from the weekend

We had a warm up over the weekend and most of our snow is gone.
I found a little 'springtime' at Home Depot.
They had the most beautiful primulas...

On Sunday I made a round zipper pouch with a small bit of fabric from a yard sale. Not sure if it's vintage, but I love the old fashioned look of it.

The zipper was salvaged and happened to match the green in the print perfectly.

Hope your weekend was good!
~Deb

knitting Pretty, my interview.


A toast to myself when I checked my mail in Africa,

I found my interview.


It had indeed been published, and I have to say,

I sound very professional;-).


So exciting!!!!!

Knitting Pretty

by Golnaz Alibagi


Listed under: One Voice

Published: Friday, January 08, 2010


Read below the beginning

Then click on link to peruse the rest
,

Please

A self-proclaimed knitting fanatic, designer Alison Friday sure knows her wool,
but what does the quirky artist make of the craft industry right now?
How do you think the knitting industry has changed over the years?

http://craftbusiness.com/site/index.php/content/onevoice/knitting_pretty1/

(Angela how random, they used Quirky? it's a sign......)

Castle Beer South African, lovely.



Lodge Crocheted Graffiti.


More Glove Knitting

I'm still working on the beginners glove knitting class-in-a-booklet that will be available next month. I'm surprised that I'm not repeating myself from my original glove knitting booklet. Apparently I can talk about glove knitting forever. I'm going to put the basic glove pattern in the booklet three times - once with the dpn version with all the photos, once with the 2 circ version with all the photos, and once the pithy version for when knitters get the general idea and want to speed things up.

The main work is dealing with all the zillions of photos I'm taking. I am very grateful for the macro setting on my digital camera (Canon PowerShot A470).

Here's a photo of the backwards loop cast on which is used for casting on stitches for the glove fingers.




I'm still trying to get a good close-up photo that shows  when to increase on either side of the thumb gusset. It is so much less frustrating to learn to read your knitting so you don't have to count rows in between the gusset increases.



I'm not much of a football fan but I'm greatly anticipating the Super Bowl this year. I just read that the Puppy Bowl VI on Animal Planet will feature bunny cheerleaders from a rabbit rescue group in VA.

I cord from a mill: one more trick (starting from the center)

In today's post on I-cord from a mill, I forgot to add: You can mill off a length of cord and just keep it laying around. Then, when you want to start a project from the center, you cut off a length, pick the little scraps of yarn out of the loops, unravel until the running yarn is long enough to not work itself loose and then put the 4 stitches of I-cord onto two small dpn's. This bit of I-cord is used as waste yarn: it is the umbilical cord for the belly-button trick for starting projects in the middle. Keeping a length of I-cord around for this purpose makes starting in the center go 1-2-3, and gives less trouble than trying to cast a very few stitches and work them. Neat, ay?

--TK
You have been reading TECHknitting on starting projects in the center with a waste scrap of I-cord.

Safari and a little frozen Crochet.


From a little frozen UK Crochet graffiti

To

Safari in South Africa,

I'm home.



Today I'm Feeling very much like my favourite Rhino picture.

Juxtaposition Ice to Rhino......



Welcome back!

Four days in the UK

Stranded by snow and nothing but school uniform emergencies.

And if you don't my opinion of snow,

Here goes.......

Hate it!


But I'm over snow, this a quick briefing of my last few weeks.



In a nut shell as a not so very well run school I know, likes to say.

I had an interview for an on line magazine(whoopee!)

It's so nice that every now and then,

Some one appreciating my artist talent in writing.


(Trying to be a full time artist, focus is hard some times)

For the love and not money as they say!


Post to follow, luckily a spam check or I would have missed this opportunity.

-8

to

+30

Two weeks spent.........

Between Cape Town

Durban

Nambiti (feeling like a famous person, oj oj oj)

Jo-berg



Hippo eye's


Doily shadow

And then Zambia, the breathe taking Victoria falls.

Big thanks to my dear friend Carmen

(for all her knowledge, and especially booking skills and family)

Back to Jo-berg then a 24 hour train travel, very Harry potter;-)


Before arriving back to Cape Town, Uk then finally Sweden.

Fly fly fly feeling very bird like.
(not to mention, very lucky)

Awake for way to many hours,

Teamed with mixed emotion, my daughter now at school over sea's.

I'm Back!!!!


Afternoon tea in Cape town.
(Very British)


Here's a little of what I have seen,

I really didn't understand my addiction of blogging until you have no pc access.

I just wanted to share it allllllllllllll.

Missing my computer, of course .......

"I got over it, obviously holiday of a life time"

I think that I'm turning in my husband, I need all my technology's


All of the time;-)

I cord from a mill

Some time ago, TECHknitting posted on "how to knit I-cord." Since then, however, a nifty new tool (machine?) has become indispensable here at ChezTECH--an I-cord mill.

My recent love of these gadgets surprises me. From reading reviews and talking to knitters, I-cord mills seemed expensive and prone to malfunction. However, as more and more projects demanded I-cord, another look was in order. So, when a German-made I-cord mill jumped into my basket at the LYS, I didn't put it out again despite the expen$e, but paid and took it home.

Once home, I read the instructions, threaded the mill and started cranking. Disaster! The stitches skipped. The needles snagged. The end result was a terrible, loopy mess. Changing yarns did not help. Although sock yarn made a better result than anything heavier, the results were still un-usable.

If one project after another hadn't called for I-cord, the mill would have stayed in the reject basket along with the snapped bamboo needles and the bent dpn's. Yet laziness eventually won out: each time an hour or three was spent mindlessly churning out I-cord by hand, I would think "there HAS to be a better way." Out would come the mill for another try.

After several months, experience showed how to make a few inches of passable cord. Frustratingly, however, just at that point, the whole business would usually start skipping. Long story short: the mill never really worked right, and one day, it pretty much broke. Towards the end, however, it did seem that if the mill had been a little heavier and better made, further experimentation would have eventually made it possible to actually produce usable I-cord.

Fast forward in time, and trip to a big-box fabric store revealed a better-made, heavier-duty (and cheaper!) mill (Embellish-knit) perched on the check-out counter. What do you know? This mill too somehow jumped into my basket and after being paid for, made the trip home. This time, the machine was made of clear plastic. Being able to see what was going on was a huge plus. Close attention eventually lead to success, and the point of today's post:

How to Use the Embellish-Knit I-cord Mill

The first part below is the theory. If theoretical stuff bores you, go to part 2: tips for using the machine.

Part 1. The Theory of the I-cord Mill.

The I-cord mill is basically a tiny knitting machine. Now, knitting machines often seem very mysterious to hand knitters. Why do knitting machines use crochet hooks for Pete's sake, and what's with the little latches? And how in the world can you knit with so darn MANY of those hooks?

The explanation is this: as you know, in hand knitting, the stitches waiting to be knit, as well as the already-knit stitches are parked along the shaft of the knitting needles. Each stitch is slid along the shaft in turn, until it is perched on the tip of the left needle. At that point, the knitter operates the right needle to pull a loop through the waiting stitch thus creating a new stitch. (Mirror image knitters reverse these directions.)

It would be difficult for a machine to duplicate these motions: The work would have to be slid in exact increments to a precise spot so the knitting mechanism could draw the new loop though each old loop in turn. Then, each already-worked stitch would have to be slid away again. At the end of each row, the work would somehow have to be turned, somehow without tangling the yarn, and the process repeated. Easy for the human hand, but the very devil for a machine.

Needles
In order to solve this problem, a different kind of needle has to be used: a "latch-hook." Although it looks mysterious, the name pretty much says it all: a latch-hook is a hooked needle which can be latched shut. The parts of the latch-hook needles in the Embellish-Knit mill are the hook, the partially-grooved shaft, the knob and the latch.

HOOK: The hook part is self-explanatory: it consists of a curved end, like a crochet hook.
SHAFT: The hook is perched atop a shaft. The shaft has a slot or GROOVE along part of its front. This shaft-groove is where the latch inserts.
KNOB: Towards the bottom, the shaft has a knob on the front. As is explained further below, the knob runs in a track around the inside of the mill.
LATCH: The latch is a little arm which swings up and down. It is held into the shaft-groove by a pin which acts as a hinge. In the most upright position, the latch smacks the hook on the nose, thus "closing" the needle--latching it shut.

Before we leave the needles to look at the mill itself, does it worry you that the latch doesn't close smoothly onto the hook? It did me. Coming from a hand-knitting background, that latch looked like an accident waiting to happen: one false move and that clumsy-looking latch would snag the yarn. But, as clumsy as the whole set-up looks, it works. The secret is this: the yarn movement along the latch is directional. The yarn never comes down onto that nasty latch top from above. Instead, the yarn slides along the latch: either up over the top of the closed latch or down off the bottom of the open latch, thus sliding smoothly right past that dangerous-looking little lip.

Mechanism
The I-cord mill features two tubes, one inside the other. Each tube, made of plastic, has some stuff molded into its walls.

The outer tube is the casing of the mill. One main function is to hold the mill together. The other main function is that it has a track molded into its walls--a circular track which is high on one side and low on the other. The knobs of the needles sit in this track.

The inner tube also features molded plastic: into its outer walls are molded slots, and the latch hook needles slide into these. This method of connecting the latch-hook needles to the inner tube is quite clever: the needles are held at a fixed distance from one another, but they remain free to slide up and down.

At the bottom of the inner tube are the mechanical guts of the mill. The inner tube rests on a gear wheel, and this gear-wheel connects to the handle-gear. When you crank the handle, the interlocking gears make the inner tube spin. As the inner tube with its attached needles go around and around, the knobs at the base of each needle are forced around the circular track. Since the track is high one side and low on the other, and since the needles are free to slide up and down their slots on the inner tube, the needles following the track are forced first up, and then down, then up again. Interestingly, spinning the inner tube with its attached needles is the only thing that requires mechanical energy, the rest of the knitting is actually done by gravity.

How the knitting happens
If you look down on a mill, you will see that there are four needles. As it happens, there are 4 stages of knitting each stitch. This means that as each of the four needles passes a certain position, it is performing one of the 4 stages of mechanical knitting. In order to make the illustrations easier to follow, the needle occupying the first stage position is always marked with a big red asterisk * in all of the illustrations of this post.

The four positions (one for each stage) are labeled on the illustration below.

First stage: The needle is poised in the air, high above the lip of the inner tube with the latch open (ie: in the downward position). Wrapped round the shaft of this needle, and disappearing down the throat of the inner tube, is some yarn put there on the last go-around. As the needle passes through stage 1, the hook catches the running yarn and begins to descend. (The arrows on the two below illustrations indicate the direction the needles are moving as they pass through those stages.)


Second stage: As the needle passes the second stage position, the sinking needle is forced against a loop of yarn which was put there on the previous round. As the needle begins to sink below this loop, the loop catches the underside of the latch and swings the latch shut, thus trapping the yarn which the hook just caught in the previous stage.

Third stage: The needle reaches its lowest point, far below the rim of the inner tube. The yarn from the previous round slips up over the latch hook, pulled upwards by the path of the yarn through the inner tube. Meanwhile, however, the yarn caught back at stage 1 remains under the hook of the needle, trapped there by the closed latch.

Do you recognize this? The fact of the yarn sliding up over the needle is, in effect, the pulling of one loop through another: this is the act of knitting, and stage 3 is where it happens.


Fourth stage: The needle starts to rise again. However, the yarn trapped under the hook ever since the latch closed on it back at stage 1, does not rise with it. This is because all the yarn is being pulled down the throat of the inner tube by a weight hanging on the finished I-cord as the cord exits the machine. The weight forces the loop to stay near the rim of the inner tube. As the needle slides upwards, the yarn, staying low, forces the latch open, and, as the needle rises higher, slips free of the latch to stay wound around the shaft. Now we are back to the beginning: we have a needle high in the air, with the latch open. This needle has a turn of yarn around its shaft, and this needle, poised and ready to hook on, is about to pass by the running yarn being fed in at stage 1.

As stated above, these stages depend on one important thing: the yarn disappearing down the throat of the tube must be exerting a pull downwards at all times (this is the gravity part). This yarn (which is actually the I-cord) must always have a weight hanging from it. If there is no weight, there is nothing to keep the yarn headed down the tube, nothing to prevent the yarn from rising into the air as the needle goes up at stage 1; nothing to prevent a horrible, horrible mess from developing. Also, it is the downward tug of the yarn which flips the latches open and shut.

Part 2: Tips to make the mill work smoothly

The big three tips are:
  • hold the FEED YARN LOOSE,
  • KEEP the WEIGHT ON, HIGH UP, and
  • make sure the LATCH has cleared.
Loose Yarn: Tip number 1, the most important tip of all, is to have the yarn being fed in LOOSE. If there is any tension AT ALL, the mill will skip. This means you have to pull out swoops and lengths of yarn as you go, piling it somewhere safe as you work. This really cannot be overstated: ANY amount of tension is too much--even the amount of tension which arises from pulling yarn out of a center-pull ball is too much, even the tension of feeding yarn into the mill directly from a yarn swift is too much. The mill will not work correctly unless the yarn being fed in comes off a LOOSE PILE of yarn. Put the cats out, and pile up the yarn.

Keep the weight clipped on high up, near the machine exit: Next most important has already been discussed: keeping the weight on the cord being knit. The Embellish-Knit folks have provided a handy weighted clothes pin which you simply clip onto the tail. In my experience, it is best to keep moving this clip up to the very top of the cord--right where it comes out of the mill. The thicker/heavier the yarn, the more often the clip has to be repositioned. In any weight yarn, if you let the clip get too far from the machine exit, it starts swinging around in wild loops as you turn the crank, so the needles start skipping.


Loop over latch: The last of the big-three tips is to make sure the latch comes open EVERY TIME a needle moves into the stage 1 position AND that the bottom of the latch rise up CLEAR of the loop.


If the latch does not rise up high enough to come free of the loop around the shaft -- illustrated above -- you will get a horrible loopy mess. Best practice would be to start off very slowly, holding the mill to eye level and watching the latch on every stitch that goes by. If the yarn is not sliding down below the bottom of the latch, you must poke it down. Then, tug the I-cord coming out at the bottom and re-position the weight so that there is sufficient tug to hold the loop down as the needle rises, thus opening and freeing the latch as the needle rises into the stage 1 position.

Some additional tips

Yarn guide: Be sure to feed the running yarn in under the yarn guide (the little arch on the front of the outer tube), otherwise, skipped stitches.

Tangling: The feed yarn wants to tangle with the I cord. To prevent, feed the yarn in from on high--from a kitchen counter, perhaps, or a shoulder-height bookshelf. Coming from above, the feed yarn cannot tangle with the I-cord coming out of the bottom.

Excessive cord length: The cord gets long fast and starts sweeping the floor, a bad idea. It will not only get dirty, but will provide drag which makes the mill want to skip. Double the cord back on itself (knot it, use a bobby pin, safety pin, whatever). When the cord gets to an uncontrollable length, I cut it. It is easy enough to graft the cord together: just put each of the 4 stitches on a dpn as if it were a tiny row and graft as usual. Also, if the cord gets too ridiculously long, the excess weight starts to cause problems.

To start the cord, feed the yarn into the mill by way of the yarn guide and pass it down the throat, leaving a tail long enough to clip the weight onto. Now catch one loop, SKIP the next needle by pulling the yarn out of the hook's way with a knitting needle. Then, catch a loop on the needle after that and SKIP the fourth needle. You cannot really do this set-up round with the weight on, so give each stitch a tug as you make it, then put the weight on as soon as these two set-up stitches have been worked.

One-ply yarns present a special problem: These are sturdy enough to be knit, but not sturdy enough to mill by ordinary methods: they cannot stand to have the weight hang from a single strand, as is necessary to start the work. Mini Mochi is an example of this sort of yarn, as is Brown Sheep single ply Lamb's Pride worsted. To get around this limitation, crochet a chain of yarn long enough to hang down the throat and clip the weight onto. Hook one of the crocheted loops around the needle in the first stage position, skip the next needle, catch the yarn on the next needle and skip the last needle. Hang the weight and carefully start turning. Sometimes the yarn will break, but usually this trick will work with fragile single ply yarns which are otherwise non-millable. If this is still not working out, start off with a lighter weight on the bottom until the actual I-cord starts coming out--a partial roll of pennies, perhaps, taped to a clothes pin.

Weight and kinds of yarn: The real issue is not so much the designated weight of the yarn you want to mill. Rather, experience dictates that it is the FLUFFINESS of the yarn which makes the most difference. As you can imagine, the hook might split a fluffy yarn so that the yarn wouldn't get caught under the hook as it should, and this makes a horrible mess. If you use a smooth yarn and keep a sharp eye on the latch of the needle at stage 1 you can mill worsted weight yarn (the kind of yarn usually knit at 5 stitches/inch). However DK is less nerve-wracking, while baby or sock yarn goes along a mile a minute.

Limber up the machine: When you first get it, it seems that the lubricant has been globbed on in one or two spots, rather than being spread around. It also seems that the gears are a bit stiff. So, before trying to mill yarn, take the mill out for a little test-run: without any yarn being threaded in, just crank the handle maybe 50 or 75 times and admire the gear mechanism which makes the needles go up and down. Also, if the hinges don't swing freely, consider a drop of WD40 on the end of a Q-tip, but be sure to wipe up the excess so you don't grease up your yarn.

Cleaning: The space between the first and second tube is open. After milling out a bunch of i-cord (?? guessing here--maybe 50 yards? maybe more?) the dust from the yarn will have mixed with the lubricant on the track to make the mill hard to spin. Needles will start to skip and the whole mill will feel rough. I myself simply took the machine apart--there are screws all over--cleaned it, lubricated the track and the hinges of the latches with WD-40 and reassembled. (I wiped everything down pretty well, too, so as not to grease up my yarn.) To keep track of what everything looked like and where all the pieces were supposed to go, I took photos at every stage of the process. Don't let the scary prospect of having the disassemble stop you from making your life so much easier with a knitting mill--this is the kind of nifty little gadget which is fun to reassemble.

Here is a photo showing I-cord milled in all weights.

The gray yarn to the left is 1-ply Brown Sheep worsted weight. This is the heaviest yarn the mill is capable of working, and it took some doing: three tries to get started, and use of the crocheted chain trick to prevent tail breakage. This relatively fluffy yarn required to be pulled down by hand every single turn for the first six or eight inches because the weight was not initially equal to the task of holding down yarn of this bulk. As the I-cord got longer, its added weight helped with the correct operation of the mill, and after a foot or so had been made, the working went much faster. However, it was clear that the closest attention would have to be paid for the entire length of cord: the yarn was at the very outer limit of the mill's capability, and it often seemed that the hook would split the yarn. The point of milling this was to show the machine's capacity: this isn't really a yarn for milling under ordinary circumstances.

The red yarn is 4-ply Cascade 220, a worsted weight, the gold colored yarn is Dale of Norway Heilo, a DK weight, the yellow is Dale of Norway Baby Ull (Baby/sock weight). All three were easy to start and easy to mill, although the Cascade had to be fed carefully and have the latch cleared a few times by pushing down the loop around the shaft.

The last yarn--the white yarn to the right--is Knitpicks Merino laceweight. This yarn is quite thin, and also required the use of the crocheted tail trick. It was easy to mill, but the final product is so thin and so very much like string that I can't imagine using it for much except shoelaces (hmmm...)

Good knitting--TK

PS: A knitting friend asked me whether Embellish-Knit paid me to write this post. They have not. They have never contacted me, nor I, them. This machine is widely available, well-made, reasonably priced and its boredom-relieving qualities commend it anywhere: well worth a post, I believe.
You have been reading TECHknitting on "Using an I-cord mill: tricks and tips."

time has flown by...

Life just seems to be pulling us in several directions lately--ordinary stuff but extra busy all the same.
No matter what, some rest and relaxation must be fit in.
We managed to get out cross country skiing once before much of the snow melted. It was a very cold, but beautifully sunny day that gave the pictures that blue light...

We passed by some of the trees marked for sugaring...

...and the sugar shack waiting for its new roof...
Every bird's nest was visible, capped with puffy snow...
And time for tea is not to be missed, no matter how hectic life becomes.

Today, with tea, I had a piece of pineapple skillet upside down cake that I made yesterday, and you can find the recipe here.
Yum!

Still Slugging Along

Ravelry has put in a neat feature HERE where you can search on patterns for sale that benefit the Haiti earthquake victims. I hope to spend some quality time soon and look through the 59 pages of offerings from generous designers.



I've had gauge issues on my last four projects which has significantly slowed down my progress. I'm currently working on the Drops Socks for the Ravelry Stranded forum KAL, an alpaca hat for DH, and a pair of plain gloves. I plan to photograph the gloves in detail while knitting them to make a booklet for brand new glove knitters who would like to see the entire process using dpns or 2 circs.

My three booklets (Stranded Color Knitting, Glove Knitting, and Mittens in Color) are finally available in print wholesale. If you are teaching a class, have a guild, run a yarn store, or want some booklets for a knitting conference, email me at nanetteblanchard (at) earthlink (dot) net and I'll set you up. It is a pretty simple process - I'll give you a link to the book at the CreateSpace estore and a discount code and you can figure out how many you'd like to order. The same discount code will work for all of the books and can be used multiple times if you want to re-order more books.

Also, all my technique booklets are in the process of being added to Patternfish along with my patterns. If you are a designer, I highly recommend working with Julia at Patternfish. She really is a wonderful lady.





I was in Santa Fe again this weekend and I took more photos of St. Francis Cathedral/Basilica. I've been to a lot of great churches including Notre Dame and Sainte-Chapelle in Paris but St. Francis in Santa Fe is still my favorite.




The recent restoration of the church was so well done - painters laboriously re-painted all the lovely trim.




I love looking at all the colors in the beautiful stonework - according to the church's Wikipedia page it is yellow limestone from Lamy, NM. Most of the stained glass windows were imported from France.

Garter stitch in the round, no seams, no wraps, no turns

Fleegle's brilliant genius has been celebrated on this blog before, and there is cause for celebration again, today. Fleegle has figured out how to garter stitch in the round without purling or seaming or wrapping or turning. Curious? Go to the how-to now.

Thank you Fleegle!

--TK
You have been reading TECHknitting blog on: Fleegle's method of garter stitch in the round

New Buttons




I love buttons. They can add so much to a finished piece.

I was recently very excited to find this awesome button selection at Tangled Yarns
and couldn't help but get some for myself!

Both of these buttons are made from coconut shells so they are nice and lightweight.
This is a really good thing because if buttons are too heavy
they can weigh down your sweater or cause the fabric
to fold over on itself if left unbuttoned.

I love the way the cut out buttons look with my Tea Leaves Cardigan!
They are the perfect size too!


Now all I need is a buttonband for them!


Uneven knitting, part 2: bunching, big stitches and lumpy fabric--the problems of too-long runs

This blog has previously discussed the problem of uneven fabric which results from "rowing out," uneven stockinette--uneven from row to row. Today, we have the related problem of knitting which is uneven from column to column. Sometimes, this problem is easy to identify, expressing itself in bunchy vertical columns across the face of the fabric, as shown in the photo below. Sometimes, however, this problem expresses itself in quite a mysterious manner, with just a few "too big" stitches showing in an otherwise perfect row.


When you first begin knitting, unevenness is, of course, unavoidable. But some knitters remain plagued with this issue. In my experience, this mainly results from a positioning problem called "too-long runs."

To explain: When we knit, we have two needles--the holding needle and the working needle. (For most knitters, the left is the holding, the right the working, but for mirror image knitters, this is reversed.) To knit a new stitch, three things have to happen, and two of them concern positioning.
  • The stitch about to be knit has to be pushed or drawn away from its neighbors, onto the tip of the left (holding) needle--positioning issue #1
  • The stitch has to be knit
  • The newly-made stitch has to be parked on the right (working needle) far enough out of the way to permit the next stitch to be made without falling off in its turn--positioning issue #2.
Obviously, each of these things ought to happen the same way each time--each stitch about to be made should be drawn forward from the pack of waiting stitches by the same distance, each new loop drawn through ought to be the same size, and each newly-made stitch ought to be parked out of the way by the same distance from the tip of the working needle.

The problem of the middle stage--drawing the same amount of yarn through each time to make consistent loops--we will save for a later post, it being a problem of feed tension. For today, we are only looking at the positioning issues of moving the stitches toward being knit, then out of the way afterwards. In other words, these positioning issues cause the problem covered by today's post: the problem of fabric uneven across the columns.

One root of this problem is that in knitting, you are in the odd position of trying to slide stitches around while also holding--clamping, actually--those very same stitches in one place as you grasp the knitting needles so as to operate them. The second root of today's problem is that knitting is complicated, and positioning your hands just right can be a bit of a chore. The natural result is the tendency of not wanting to shift the hands too often--of making as many stitches possible before re-positioning the hands.

It has been my observation that knitters who create smooth fabric have overcome this tendency. They re-position their hands every few stitches, or even, every stitch. But knitters whose fabric is not-so-smooth tend, perhaps, to hang on to the needles, shoving forward a bunch of stitches at a time, knitting all these--perhaps as many as 10 stitches or even more--without repositioning their hands on the needles. In other words, these knitters do not reposition until it becomes absolutely necessary to do so because there are no more stitches reachable on the left needle, while the newly-made stitches are about to fall off the right needle tip.

As you can imagine, when using this bunch-wise system, the first stitch to be knit is separated from its left-hand neighbor by very little distance, while the last stitch of the bunch is drawn very far from its neighbor--a neighbor being held back to be the first stitch of the next bunch. Similarly, the first stitch of the bunch to climb aboard the right-hand needle is held a fair distance away from its right-hand neighbor--the last stitch of the old bunch--while the last stitch to climb aboard is jammed and crammed up against the other stitches newly-made in the same bunch.

The evil is that the running yarn--the yarn coming from the skein--has to run a further distance between stitches in widely-separated bunches than between stitches of the same bunch.

If this is a one-time random event--maybe the knitter was trying to get in a few last stitches before running for the phone--the result is the mysterious set of too-big stitches in the middle of an otherwise good row. This sort of problem can usually be blocked out: as the knitting flexes, the small amount of excess yarn stretches from one place to another.

However, when this sort of distortion is systemic, the fabric cannot recover. In other words, if the hand routinely takes bunches of roughly equal numbers of stitches, the fabric soon begins to distort into vaguely vertical columns, each column representing the width of the bunch-wise knitting. Fabric knit bunch-wise, where uneven amounts of yarn routinely lays between stitches in adjoining columns, is unlikely to ever lay smooth, not even when properly blocked.


Once the problem has been laid out, it becomes easier to understand positioning adaptations made to solve this problem. One reason why the old-time production hand-knitters used knitting sheathes or belts to hold the needles was to separate the holding function from the knitting function. If the needles and fabric can be supported without the hand clamping the stitches to the needle, the hand becomes free to guide the stitches, smoothly and evenly bringing each stitch to the working tips and taking it away again, always moving the stitches by the same amount. In machine knitting, this problem of uneven runs has been solved by having an entire bank of needles, one for each column, and these needles are fixed in position, so that the running yarn always travels an identical distance between adjoining stitches.

For the modern hand knitter, the cure is to reposition the hands and the stitches often, keeping the runs short--a few stitches, at most. Slower initially, yet soon the hands take the situation in stride. Keeping runs short by moving the stitches evenly up to the left tip and away from the right becomes one more automatic gesture among many made by the knitter's hand, a smoother fabric resulting.
--TK
You have been reading TECHknitting blog on "uneven knitting--bunching, big stitches and lumpy fabric."

Prairie

Yep.

I bought more Madelinetosh. Somebody stop me please...



Packaging Dress Made Real.


This is my packaging dress constructed entirely of fruit and vegetable packaging.

It appear on my mannequin as a finished dress.

But

Actually

Factually

If I'm honest

I have learnt a few cheats/photography & photo-shop.



The fact is that it's all edged in crochet.

That's all the packaging squares and rectangles.

But the actual dress construction, is a fraud.

It is completely pinned in place.

A dress makers dummy.

I had mapped out where the parts will be/roughly.

And just before I left for my holiday I had actually began the big task

of making it wearable and stitching them together.


The actual dress construction part has now commenced.



I made a band the yellow cotton crochet and this worked,

It was trial and error
!

As I tried a few bands.

The acrylic was just to thick not delicate enough.


Then in my dwindling stash
(I really need to sell some art to replenish this)

I found the cotton/lemon worked a treat and I'm off.

Watch this space a lot of construction and imagination to follow.

My on line mention

Stickkontakt

I'm feeling very smug.

http://stickkontakt.blogspot.com/


Pom- pom set in Ice.



I'm so in love with these picture's, new Ice project.

It's a frozen Pom-pom set in Ice.

Very in-keeping with the English weather.

It took five and a half hour's to collect my son.

A trip that should have taken three.

Tonight we are brassed for the coldest yet -17

Yes that's England not Stockholm.......shocking!.